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The allure of Paris is clear.
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Its landmarks, chic shops and enviable restaurants draw in tourists from around the world.
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But has the 'City of Lights' lost some of its shine? Is it trapped by its glorious past?
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Well, the city's mayor and some of its most venerable businesses are working hard to keep
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the city looking forward.
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New environmental policies have opened up the streets, while the city's most famous
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hotels have been refurbished and modernized.
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Welcome to Paris.
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One of the first global cities, Paris has attracted emigres and artists, writers and
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entrepreneurs for centuries.
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It remains famous for fashion and food and attracts more than
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17 million tourists a year.
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And when they get here, tourists dig deep, spending on average over $300 a day.
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That's second only to shopping mall heaven Dubai.
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But with its clogged boulevards, neoclassical architecture and occasionally obstinate service,
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Paris can feel like it's penned in by its past
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but nostalgic thinking is being firmly rejected, and not by some nouveau crowd
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but by the old guard.
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This is the Ritz Paris, arguably the world's most famous hotel.
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It opened in 1898 and has been serving the world's who's who ever since.
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But this symbol of high society and luxury was getting a bit tired and it closed in 2012
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for a $420 million renovation, only reopening in 2016.
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Welcome inside the Ritz's Imperial Suite. It's pretty rare to get in here.
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It starts at $20,000 a night
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but for that money you get a lot of marble, gold leaf, and antique furniture.
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This is 18th century refinement, with USB plugs in the wall.
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But you don't come to the Ritz just for the suites.
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Perhaps as famous as the hotel itself is its bar, The Hemingway
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named after the American author and keen drinker.
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The story of how it got its name is full of holes but the short version is that it was
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"liberated" - and that word is used very loosely - by the author from German soldiers.
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He proceeded to buy 51 Dry Martinis.
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So if the Ritz is keeping modernity close, but not too close, Paris's other grand old
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hotel has gone the other way.
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If you think the Ritz is posh, take a look at the Crillon.
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This 18th century property has been transformed from a snooty hotel for the world's super-rich
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into a classy, modern hotel for the world's super-rich.
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Contemporary art adorns the lobbies and bars, while the staff are youthful
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and dressed to the nines.
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It also beats the Ritz on price. Business suites start at $1,350 and go up to a whopping
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$36,000 a night for the Grand Apartment.
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Every room has its own butler, because why not?
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but it's the little things that
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make the experience special.
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A barber is on-site to make sure your beard is as sharp as your suit.
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While in-house cobblers are at the ready to fix, polish and shine
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and offer some vintage cognac.
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The Crillon has embraced modernity and it's all the better for it.
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But step outside and cars, trucks and scooters roar round Place de la Concorde.
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Research by environmental lobby group Transport & Environment found living in the city
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for a year is equivalent to smoking 183 cigarettes.
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Paris's air quality is bad. You can taste the diesel fumes
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and its mayor is determined to change that.
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Cars built before 1997 are banned from entering the city center on weekdays from 8am to 8pm.
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And the city has also introduced car-free days on the first Sunday of every month.
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Paris wants to lead the way in reducing air pollution and other cities around Europe
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are following suit.
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Working to ensure this historic city doesn't rest on its laurels
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but keeps its eyes on the future.